List of aquarium disease

List of aquarium disease

The following could be a list of vivarium diseases. vivarium fish ar usually prone to various diseases, owing to the unnaturally restricted and targeted atmosphere. New fish will typically introduce diseases to aquaria, and these is tough to diagnose and treat. Most fish diseases also are aggravated once the fish is stressed 

Common vivarium diseases embrace the subsequent:
1- AnchorWorm
2- Dropsy
3- Egg Fungus
4- FinRot
5- Hole-in-the-head
6- Iridovirus
7- Lymphocystis
8- MalawiBloat
9- MouthFungus or Columnaris
10- NeonTetra Disease
11- Piscine Tuberculosis
12- Pseudomoniasis
13-Saprolegnia Fungus
14-SingaporeAngelfish Diseases
15- Skinor Gill Flukes
16- SwimBladder Disorder
17-Tetrahymena
18- Vibrosis
19-WhiteSpots (Ick)
20-Marinevelvet
21- VelvetDisease 

septicemia fish

Septicemia fish

What is "Red Pest"?

All these people are doing is making up a new name for Septicemia. As well technically speaking, when referring to fish, Septicemia is NOT a disease either, rather a symptom of other pathogens or a or the results of water conditions (usually both)!!

Reference from:
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/septicemia
-invasion of the bloodstream by virulent microorganisms and especially bacteria along with their toxins.

While the reference is a human description of Septicemia (what these people so cutely call Red Pest), it still applies to fish as medical terminology. Medical terminology regardless whether it's for fish or humans is medical terminology.

Where fish and humans may part ways is the pathogen or pathogens which cause the Septicemia.
Fish and humans are susceptible to different pathogens. It is these different pathogens that must be treated and defeated, NOT the symptoms!!

By far the most common cause in fish is the Aeromonas or Marine Vibrio bacteria, which is a gram negative, aerobic or anaerobic bacterium.
This is often trigged by poor water conditions with high amounts of decomposing organic debris/mulm in substrate (or poor or poorly maintained filters).
High nitrates and a poor Redox are common when the "condition" of Septicemia is present

However this poisoning of the blood can be caused by a virus; known as "Viral hemorrhagic septicemia virus" (VHSV, or VHSv). Even more rare cases internal nematode worm infections can release poisons into the bloodstream also causing Septicemia.
Generally VHSV is limited to freshwater salmonids in western Europe, not tropical aquarium fish or goldfish.

What is the importance of a correct diagnosis? Instead of acting like "Red Pest" is a true fish disease?

For starters, Aeromonas is a disease of opportunity. To treat just one symptom would allow the possibility for this disease to rebound, assuming it is even eliminated in the first place. Incorrect medications and incomplete treatment are recommended by these articles about "Red Pest".

Often water conditions are poor where an Aeromonas infection is present. This could be copious amounts of waste, over loaded or poor filters, or the pH, KH, GH, & Redox (& rH) are all too low or unstable.
Rotting fish food or poor digestibility of fish food can allow for a gut infection of Aeromonas.

Sometimes with Mollies just correctly mineralizing your water with products such as American Aquarium Wonder Shells is all that is needed for a so-called cure. WHY? Because this was NOT a disease, rather symptom of poor water quality resulting in septicemia.
Product Resource: Unique Wonder Shells found ONLY at American Aquarium

So, to not address these possibilities or more than likely probabilities, would be an incomplete treatment at best. Sort of like treating your brain tumor with an aspirin! It helps with the pain, but does not cure the tumor.

What happens with Septicemia (Red Pest)?

Often Aeromonas can go internal in a fish, such as the gut or other internal locations. As well, this bacterium can be an external infection which simply gets into the bloodstream and then poisons the fish.

What is the best course of action (treatment)?

Since the main purpose of this article is provide correct identification and put an end to the misinformation (as with many "Fish as Pets" articles), I will not go into too much detail other to refer readers to read this article for more in depth information on treatment:
FISH AEROMONAS, SEPTICEMIA

I will however cover a few basics, only to correct the poor information provided elsewhere by those calling this "Red Pest" disease:

• The obvious is since 9 times out of 10 poor water conditions are a factor, look to improve these.
  Check, clean, change substrate & filters. Make sure water conditions are where they should be, INCLUDING Redox (which is often simply improved by improving other parameters along with the addition of mineral Cations and true UVC sterilization)
  
  Reference: Aquarium Redox
  
  Resources:
  *AAP Unique Wonder Shells for Redox improving Mineral Cations
  *AAP/TMC Vecton UV Sterilizers


• One point they do get right is a fish food medication soak, although since Chloramphenical is not available, Kanamycin is the next best choice. This can also be added directly to the water.
  Neomycin OR Metronidazole are good choices to combine with the Kanamycin in the fish food, with the Metronidazole being the better choice if the cause is suspected to possibly be a nematode worm, which is not common.
  
  Good sources for these medications are HERE:
  SeaChem Kanaplex, SeaChem Metronidazole, & SeaChem Neoplex (Neomycin).


• Next, what Aquatic Community and others miss is a fish bath is often the must successful for total eradication.
  See FISH BATHS


• As well the Aquatic Community article and others, including cut and paste advice on "Yahoo Answers" make incorrect/contradictory medication recommendations. From their article:
  "There are a variety of different antibiotics that can be used, e.g. tetracycline and chloromycetin (chloramphenicol)".
  
  First chloramphenicol might be a good choice if you could find it (although it has been has been linked to the development of aplastic anemia). However, to make the statement that a variety of different antibiotics that can be used is medically incomplete. There is a reason we have so many antibiotics and to attempt to treat a gram negative infection such as Aeromonas with a gram positive treatment such as Tetracylcine, is simply NOT GOING TO WORK!
  WORSE YET, is the the fact Tetracycline lowers red blood cell count; WHY ON EARTH WOULD YOU TREAT AN INFECTION OF THE BLOOD WITH AN ANTIBIOTIC THAT LOWERS RED BLOOD CELL COUNT???

Resource: Tetracycline from American Aquarium

Please Read;

• Aquarium Medications; Antibiotics, Tetracycline
• Aquarium Medications; Antibiotics, Chloramphenicol

Other considerations include preventative measures such as better bio filtration using premium sponge filters or the best bio filters, Fluidized Sand Bed Filters.

Resources:

• Sponge Filters from American Aquarium
• Fluidized Sand Bed Filters

As well feeding a highly digestible food such as Spirulina based fish foods can help with prevention of Aeromonas in the gut.

Resources: 
Spirulina 20 from American Aquarium
AAP Premium & Paradigm Fish Foods

Finally adding a quality UV Sterilizer such as the AAP/TMC Vecton that can perform true level one sterilization, NOT the junk sold on Amazon, eBay, and elsewhere for under $50 that are AT BEST just clarifiers, NOT true UV Sterilizers.
These level one or two sterilizers can help with water borne infections and also improve Redox Balance, thus improving fish immune response.

Velvet

Velvet (fish disease)

Velvet sickness, conjointly referred to as atomic number 79 sickness, may be a fish sickness caused by flagellate parasites of the genus Piscinoodinium, which provides the fish a dust-covered, slimy look. The sickness happens most typically in tropical and (to a lesser extent) marine aquaria.
Life cycle:
The acellular parasite's life cycle will be divided into 3 major phases. First, as a tomont, the parasite rests at the water's floor and divides into as several as 256 tomites. Second, these juvenile, motile tomites swim concerning in search of a fish host, meantime mistreatment chemical action to grow, and to fuel their search. Finally, the adolescent tomite finds and enters the slime coat of a number fish, dissolving and overwhelming the host's cells, and needing solely 3 days to achieve full maturity before detaching to become a tomont all over again.
Pathology:
Velvet (in associate marine museum environment) is typically unfold by contaminated tanks, fish, and tools (such as nets or testing supplies). There are rare reports of frozen live foods (such as bloodworms) containing dormant varieties of the species. Frequently, however, the parasite is endemic to a fish, and solely causes an obvious "outbreak" once the fish's system is compromised for a few different reason. The sickness is very contagious and may prove fatal to fish.
Symptoms:
Initially, infected fish area unit acknowledged to "flash", or periodically dart from one finish of associate marine museum to a different, scratching against objects so as to alleviate their discomfort. they're going to conjointly "clamp" their fins terribly near their body, and exhibit lethargy. If untreated, a 'dusting' of particles (which area unit actually the parasites) are seen everywhere the infected fish, go in color from brown to gold to inexperienced. within the most advanced stages, fish can have problem respirating, can typically refuse food, and can eventually die of drive attributable to mortification of their gill tissue.
Treatment:
Sodium chloride is believed to mitigate the copy of Velvet, but this treatment isn't itself ample for the entire demolition of an endemic. Additional, common medications adscititious on to the fish's surroundings embrace copper sulphate, methylthionine chloride, formalin, mineral inexperienced and acriflavin, all of which might be found in common fish medications designed specifically to combat this sickness. in addition, as a result of Velvet parasites derive a little of their energy from chemical action, exploit a tank in darkness for seven days provides a useful supplement to chemical curatives. Finally, some enthusiasts suggest raising the water temperature of associate infected fish's surroundings, so as to quicken the life cycle (and ensuant death) of Velvet parasites; but this maneuver isn't sensible for all fish, and will induce immu no com promising stress.

Marine Velvet Disease​

Marine Velvet Disease​

Amyloodinium ocellatum, ordinarily spoken as “velvet,” could be a single celled flagellate protozoan. it's generally spoken as a hybrid, having characteristics of each plants and animals. However, for marine aquarists it's a feared infectious agent with a name for being capable of wiping out a complete fish population in barely a matter of days.

Velvet features a lifecycle (more information here: http://www.ultimatereef.com/articles/marinevelvet/) like that of Cryptocaryon irritans (ich). Even the nomenclature used is usually a similar - except velvet “free swimmers” area unit spoken as dinospores rather than theronts. Velvet’s lifecycle is usually quicker (completed in four days on average), and therefore the assaultive free swimmers area unit a lot of varied than ich. Also, velvet dinospores will stay infective for up to fifteen days, whereas with ich theronts it’s solely forty eight hours. this can be as a result of velvet tomonts and dinospores area unit each capable of exploitation chemical process as a method of getting nutrients (remember it's a dinoflagellate).

Symptoms - Velvet dinospores can typically invade the gills 1st and generally kill the fish right then as a result of asphyxiation. If this happens, you will ne'er see physical proof of velvet on the skin & fins. Therefore, it's necessary to watch for these key activity symptoms of velvet:

    Reduced or complete loss of appetence.
 serious respiration, rubbing, flashing, head spasm, erratic swimming behavior (unfortunately velvet shares of these same symptoms with ich & gill flukes.)
    Swimming into the flow of a powerhead (unique to velvet).
    Acting reclusive (velvet causes fish to be sensitive to light).

If visible physical symptoms do manifest:

    Velvet might begin} start out wanting a bit like ich, with salt or sugar-like “sprinkles” visible totally on the fins.
 among days or generally simply hours, these little white dots can unfold everywhere the fish’s body, covering it in “dust.” This mud might look grey-gold coloured if viewed at the correct angle and below the correct spectrum of sunshine. For this reason, it should be tough to check velvet on a yellow or lightweight coloured fish (look from AN angle, ultimately from the side). However, generally a fish’s body can look “dirty” or show “dark areas” simply before velvet seems.
    There area unit 2 ways that to differentiate velvet from ich:

    Velvet trophonts (and the correlating dots) area unit abundant smaller than ich. they vary in size from 10-80 micrometers in diameter. they're additionally dead spherical. Ich trophonts area unit a lot of oval formed and point size from forty eight x twenty seven to 452 x 360 micrometers. each take off tiny on the other hand grow in size before dropping off. it's been aforesaid that velvet makes a fish seem like it's been dusted with a fine powder, whereas ich is a lot of like salt grains.
    If you'll be able to count the amount of white dots on your fish, then you're in all probability managing ich. If they're too varied to count, it's presumably velvet.

The importance of recognizing key activity symptoms of velvet so starting treatment now can not be stressed enough. this can be as a result of once velvet has unfold to the body, the fish is heavily infected and prognosis is bleak. However, i'll demonstrate below that this can be not perpetually the case. Velvet cannot typically be managed, as ich generally is, as a result of its sheer overwhelming numbers. Survivors of velvet area unit typically clownfish or different fish with thick mucous secretion coats. it's additionally thought a awfully tiny proportion of fish area unit capable of build up either natural or temporary immunity (usually vi months max) to velvet.

Treatment choices - antimalarial drug phosphate is that the treatment of alternative for velvet, however copper additionally works if symptoms area unit caught ahead of time. These additionally work on ich, thus if doubtful treating with CP or copper can have you ever lined each ways that. Tank transfer and hyposalinity don't work with velvet. A fresh dip and/or chemical tub (discussed in additional detail below) is usually recommended either before or throughout treatment, as a result of the severity of this disease; but these would solely give temporary relief and can not eradicate velvet.

Fallow amount - vi weeks if you're sure it's velvet. However, if you think ich or the other disease(s) is also lingering in your show tank, then it's best to travel fallow for seventy six days.

White Spot

White Spot Disease: Your Complete Ich Treatment Guide

If you’ve immersed yourself into the delightful fish keeping hobby for any length of time, you’ve likely stumbled across white spot disease. White spot disease is a nasty infection caused by ich (or the longer version: Ichtyopthirius multifiliis). In fact, most aquarists have had to use an ich treatment at some point.

You come home one morning, brand new goldfish wiggling excitedly in their plastic bag. You’ve already set up the perfect aquarium environment for the little ones.
A cascading waterfall ornament spits out bubbles as your goldfish weave to and fro through the plants. Dazzling light bounces off green and blue rocks to pool streams of color across the glass. You’ve already cycled the tank. Everything is functioning the way it should.
You’re excited. Your goldfish are thrilled. And they enjoy their new home.
But three days later, you notice something odd.

Help! There Are White Spots on My Goldfish!

Your goldfish are smashing their bodies against every available surface, only to circle back down to the substrate with rapid, straining breaths. What’s more, your goldfish have become salted pretzels!
That can’t be right. You take a closer look through the glass and confirm that, indeed, your goldfish are sprinkled with tiny white spots. What do you do?
First of all, don’t panic!
White spot disease is actually pretty common in aquariums. This is especially true after buying new fish and forgetting to quarantine them before introducing them to the family.
The good news is that white spot disease can be cured with a natural ich treatment, without having to use strong medications that take weeks to rinse out. We’ll talk about this in a bit.
But before we begin ich treatment, let’s make sure your goldfish are suffering from white spot disease.

White Spot Disease Symptoms

If water tests come out clean but your goldfish are acting funky, you probably have a parasite problem.
Good thing that you can use an ich treatment to cure white spot disease quickly. But it’s important to treat ich early, before the parasite takes over the aquarium. Otherwise, numbers will become too overwhelming for your poor goldfish to handle.
Sick goldfish symptoms include…

• Heavy breathing: Your goldfish aren’t getting enough oxygen, so their gills speed into overdrive.
• Persistent scratching and brushing against objects: Your goldfish itch! They’d just as likely scrape their skin and damage their scales to make the itching stop.
• Small white spots on goldfish: Ich parasites won’t be visible at first. But after these pesky organisms feed on the bodily fluids of skin and fins, they encyst themselves and appear like small flecks of salt or sugar. The result? Your goldfish turn into swimming, breathing salted pretzels!
• Larger white patches on scales and fins: If you don’t use an ich treatment before white spot disease worsens, more ich parasites will attach to your goldfish to feed. So many that they might resemble salty white patches on gills, scales, and fins!

White spot disease can get downright scary as parasites quickly multiply. But don’t confuse this nasty infection with breeding tubercles on male goldfish. If white spots are only concentrated on the gill covers and head, your goldfish are ready for loving action.
Ich attacks all over.
These parasites don’t just attach themselves to the gills and head. If you want to be sure that your goldfish have white spot disease, look for spots on the body and along the fins. Besides, young eager-to-mate males act far differently from how a sick, infected fish would – they’re restless and not afraid to chase down a few females if given the chance.
Read more on goldfish disease symptoms if you don’t think an ich treatment will help.
So we know what ich looks like, but…

What Exactly Is White Spot Disease?

White spot disease, scientifically named Ichtyopthirius multifiliis, is commonly referred to as freshwater ich or ick.
The disease is caused by single-cell organisms (protozoa) that attack fish with lowered immune systems. If your goldfish have recently survived an infection, sudden temperature change, or long period in dirty water, they could be vulnerable to white spot disease.
And if they’re infected, treat goldfish promptly with an ich treatment!

Most ich is brought into the aquarium from the outside. When selecting goldfish, always look for signs of trouble and don’t buy anything from a tank with even one fish with ich. – Quick & Easy Goldfish Care by TFH Publications, Inc.

While ich is common in freshwater aquariums, the infection should by no means be brushed aside as something trivial. Begin ich treatment immediately. If ich parasites are allowed to run rampant, they can quickly overwhelm goldfish until their weakened bodies can’t handle the attack and your goldfish die.
Don’t risk the health of your fish because of one lousy judgment.
Always quarantine new fish several weeks before you let them explore the main aquarium. Even if your goldfish don’t appear sick, you should still practice safety first. You don’t know what kinds of goldfish diseases or parasites are swimming around in the water your bagged fish are in.
When ich parasites first attack, they won’t be visible unless you take a microscope to your aquarium. By the time you notice any signs of white spot disease, all of your fish will be infected.

Before Ich Treatment: A Deep Look at the Ich Life Cycle

You might not think it’s important, but learning how the ich parasite attacks and feeds off of your goldfish will help you understand why and how an ich treatment works. Better yet, it will help you understand how to wipe out ich once and for all so you never again have to use an ich treatment.

Feeding Stage

Each white spot on your goldfish is actually a nodule, or small lump, that an ich parasite has formed on your fish’s skin. What you’re observing is known as the feeding stage (source). The parasite (now a trophozoite) attaches itself to the skin and devours your goldfish’s body fluids until it’s ready to reproduce.
In fact, parasites have likely been feeding off of your goldfish a few days before the small lumps, or white spots, are even visible.
Ich trophozoites are resistant to most ich medications during the feeding stage. So if you try to use an ich treatment strong enough to kill them while they’re hidden away in their nodules, your goldfish will also receive the brunt of the attack.

Encapsulated Dividing Stage

When the ich parasite has finished feeding, it detaches itself from the skin and finds a piece of substrate, plant, or ornament where it will develop a cyst. The parasite becomes a tomont and the encapsulated dividing stage begins.
Hundreds of new parasites (theronts) will be produced within the next 24 hours.

Free-swimming Stage

According to Marshall E. Ostrow, author of Goldfish: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual, over 500 new parasites break through each unattached cyst. This starts the free-swimming stage, where hundreds of new ich protozoa swim around looking for a host to attach to.
It’s now that you’ll want to begin treatment for white spot disease. Ich are most vulnerable during the free-swimming stage, when they’re not surrounded by a cyst. So before they attach to your goldfish, you’ll want to kill off as many of these free-swimming parasites with an ich treatment.
Once the parasite finds a host to attach to, the cycle repeats itself. They’ll feed for a few days, detach themselves, and form new cysts on the substrate and plants. Each new cyst contains hundreds of more parasites.
But hold in your tears! Curing your goldfish from white spot disease shouldn’t be daunting. You can speed up the process by raising the water temperature, forcing more parasites into the free-swimming stage.
Water temperature affects how long or short the ich life cycle is. Since goldfish enjoy cooler temperatures, naturally it might take weeks to a month for one parasite to finish a life cycle. At room temperature, an ich life cycle may complete in about five to seven days.
Luckily, you can speed up the life cycle even faster than that without harming your goldfish in the process. Here, I’ll teach you how with first a natural ich treatment before we dive into commercial ich treatment options.

How to Cure White Spot Disease: 2 Highly-Effective Ich Treatments

Remember: Don’t stop treatment when white spot disease is no longer visible.
You have to realize that not all of the parasites in your aquarium will be at the same stage in their life cycle. During the encapsulating dividing and free-swimming stages, you won’t even see the parasite until it attaches to your goldfish and enters the feeding stage.
For this reason, it’s important that you continue ich treatment even after you stop noticing signs of white spot disease. Otherwise, you might just miss a few parasites in the encapsulating dividing stage. The next thing you know, your goldfish are once more infected by white spot disease and you have to start ich treatment all over again.
With that in mind, let’s start exterminating nasty parasites! There are two methods for total ich destruction.
The first method is what I call the natural ich treatment. I recommend trying your hand at this one first, since it’s less expensive and undoubtedly less stressful on your goldfish than several commercial remedies.
The second method calls for the purchase of a commercial ich treatment. Depending on the medication, you’ll need to be cautious to make sure it doesn’t have a negative impact on any other pets in the aquarium.
All of the below ich treatments are very effective. However, if you plan to move very sick goldfish to a hospital tank, you should also treat the main aquarium to kill off any lingering parasites.

Ich Treatment #1: Natural Ich Remedy

I recommend this natural ich treatment, as it combines heat and salt to cure white spot disease.
First, the heat stops ich from dividing into hundreds of more parasites after it has detached from your goldfish. Next, the salt will help your goldfish develop their much-needed slime coats, which will safe-guard them against ich reattachments. Lastly, both the salt and heat will attack free-swimming ich with dagger-precision until the last of the parasites are killed off.
It’s important that you don’t medicate your goldfish during this process or else the heat and medication may work together to deny your goldfish oxygen (source). Some medications lower the oxygen levels in the water and, because heat also reduces oxygen, it’s safest for your fish if these two ich treatments aren’t combined.

Note: If you have other species of fish or invertebrates in the same aquarium, make sure they aren’t sensitive to salt before using the natural ich treatment. Fish like the scale-less variety can’t withstand large doses of salt. If your fish are sensitive to salt, do your research to determine how much salt to use in the aquarium.

Salt is optional. In fact, some fish hobbyists have successfully treated white spot disease without the use of salt at all. If you’re worried about giving your fish a salt bath, feel free to use just the heat method.

1. Slowly raise the temperature of your aquarium water to 86 °F (30 °C). Do this over a 48-hour time period, raising the temperature in small increments (2 °F/1 °C every hour) to give your goldfish time to adjust to the heat (and prevent shock). High temperatures will stop ich parasites from reproducing (source).
2. Maintain high oxygen levels. As the temperature rises, water won’t be able to hold dissolved oxygen as well (source). Oxygenate the water by reducing the water level (this will boost surface area agitation from your filter), aiming power heads towards the surface of the water, or placing a few extra air stones (or ornaments with embedded air stones) into the water.
3. Add salt (optional). Use salt specifically for freshwater fish (aquarium salt), not table salt. Follow the directions on the back of the container for best results. I like to use API Aquarium Salt – it really works great on white spot disease. Simply add 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) for every 5 gallons (19 liters) of aquarium water. Many specialists also recommend 1 teaspoon per gallon instead.
4. Keep your water temperature at a steady 86 °F (30 °C) for 10 days, changing the water every couple of days. While ich symptoms are visible, change 25% of the water every two days to keep oxygen levels up and remove excess parasites (adding the appropriate dose of aquarium salt after each water change). Wait 3 to 5 days after the last signs of white spot disease and reduce water temperatures once you’re sure all ich parasites are gone.
5. Gradually reduce the water temperature back to 65 °F (18 °C). By this time, your goldfish should be swimming around happily in an ich-free environment. Do one last 25% water change and continue your water changes on a weekly basis as usual.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully conquered ich. Your goldfish should be very happy indeed.
If you notice more white spots on your goldfish after using the natural ich treatment (and you’re sure you continued treatment for at least three days after the last visible signs of white spot disease), it could mean that the parasite has grown resistant to the heat and salt treatment.
Don’t worry! If the ich parasite continues to attack your goldfish, the next step is to begin medicating. Let’s walk through the steps.

Ich Treatment #2: Using Commercial Ich Medications

If ich could win rewards, it would be for being persistent.
It’s okay though. While unpleasant, ich can’t stay alive forever. If you still notice parasites after 10 days of the heat and salt ich treatment, follow these steps.

1. Change 25% of the water and remove excess waste. Vacuum the gravel with a water siphon and remove the active carbon from your filter. Increase surface agitation by lowering the water level or increasing water flow at the surface of the aquarium. Make sure your filter is still pushing a healthy flow of water into the aquarium.
2. Slowly raise the water temperature to 80 °F (26 °C) over a 48-hour time period. The goal here is not to kill the ich with heat alone, like the natural ich treatment described above, but to speed up the ich life cycle. Basically, you want to force each parasite into the free-swimming stage as quickly as possible (where the ich medication will begin its work) without harming your goldfish in the process. Make sure you only raise the water temperature in small increments (2 °F/1 °C every hour).
3. Treat your goldfish with ich medication. There are a host of commercial ich treatments on the market and many are effective. I personally like Mardel’s CopperSafe Fish Treatment. This ich treatment is copper-based and doesn’t stain like some medications. It can also be used to treat velvet, anchor worms, and other parasites. But be careful if you have invertebrates or plants in the same aquarium. Copper-based ich medications can be harmful. If you have a few lucky snails that have survived being goldfish food, try shopping around to find the best solution for your particular fish community. When you do find an ich treatment that works with your tank, read the label thoroughly and only use the recommended dosage.
4. Add salt (optional). As mentioned earlier, salt can protect your goldfish by boosting its slime coat. It’s also effective when combined with medication. Words to the wise: If you have other fish and invertebrates in the aquarium, make sure they aren’t sensitive to salt treatments. If they are, you’re better off without.

If you’ve followed these directions exactly and you still notice signs of white spot disease, give it a couple weeks. Each ich parasite needs to begin the free-swimming stage before it can be exterminated. Eventually, white spots on your goldfish should disappear.
So now your goldfish are swimming away, carefree in an ich-free environment. Good work! I’m sure your goldfish are grateful to have conquered that itch.
But can the aquarium stay that way?


The article from the source 

Vibriosis

Vibriosis - Fish

Introduction
Vibriosis is one in every of the foremost rife fish diseases and is caused by bacterium happiness to the genus Vibrio. one in every of the foremost necessary strain is eubacterium anguillarum that is of major importance to malacopterygian fish culture trade and is additionally called Red cuss of eels. it's a gram negative recurvate and rod formed bacteria with one polar flagellum. alternative species (e.g. V. salmonicida) might have various polar flagella. V. anguillarum has been divided into 2 separate biotypes of that V. anguillarum genotype II has been renamed and classified as a brand new species eubacterium ordalii. It causes trauma septicemia and blood disorder.
Other members of the genus Vibrio are related to vibriosis outbreaks in fish and shellfish (molluscs and crustacean) and these include: V. salmonicida, V. damsela, V. vulnificus genotype II, V. tubiashii, V. carchariae, V. splendidus and V. pelagius.
Signalment
Vibrio anguillarum is found in cultivated and wild marine fish in shallow salt or salt water throughout late summer. The microorganism was thought to be unfold by contact with scavenging wild fish feeding round the farms however V. anguillarum, has been found within the food of cultivated and wild healthy fish
Outbreaks of vibriosis are seen in Pacific and Atlantic salmon, Trout, Turbot, stripy bass, Winter flounder, Cod, Red sea-bream, European and Japanese eel, Saithe (Pollachius Virens), Gilthead sea-bream, Sea mullet, Seriola, siluriform fish, Milkfish, Ayu, and genus Tilapia. It may have an effect on molluscs and crustacean together with European and Ostrea gigas, clam, lobster and shrimp.
Disease outbreaks will be influenced by water quality and temperature, the strain and virulence of the {vibrio|vibrion|eubacteria|eubacterium|true bacterium} bacteria and therefore the quantity of stress obligatory upon the fish.
Other species of eubacterium have an effect on a good vary of species for instance V. salmonicida primarily affects Alantic salmon and trout and causes cold water vibriosis, V. damsela affects metalworker species (Chromis punctipinnis), V. vulnificus conjointly called V. anguillicidacuases causes malady in eels.
Both V. vulnificus and V. damsela square measure animal disease. it's thought that the infection is caused from feeding contaminated raw or undercooked food, especially raw oysters. disorder and other people with liver diseases square measure at magnified risk.
Clinical Signs
Clinical signs of vibriosis square measure harm to intestines, body cavity, spleen and muscle, distended mucoid and death gut and petechiation, erosion and darkended colouration to the skin and fins. Changes to the eyes embody distension and cloudiness and periorbital swelling. White/grey lesions will be found on the intestines and spleen and in fry, hypertrophy will be seen.
V. damsela and V.vulnificus cause severe, progressive necrotizing infection in humans.
Distribution
Asia, North America and Europe together with outbreaks within the Britain.
Diagnosis
Presumptive diagnosing will be made up of clinical signs particularly characteristic red spots, swollen and dark lesions on the skin that bleed and ophthalmic changes; though some acute and severe cases die while not clinical signs. With V.anguillarum a lot of severe pathology is seen within the drizzling alimentary tract because the conditions become a lot of alkalescent. Most tissues square measure septic with no proof of body process.
Identification strategies embody a substance for presumptive identification, a sensitivity assay to filter discs fertile with a saturated resolution of the vibriostatic agent 0/129 (2,4-diamino-6,7-diisopropylteridine), nitrate reduction, presence of enzyme, enzyme and essential amino acid enzyme, reaction with being antibodies and antiflagellar serum, and hybridizing with specific 16S ribosomal RNA (rRNA) oligonucleotide
Vibrio species will be known victimisation being antibodies (MAbs).
V. vulnificus will be known victimisation AN assay for the erythrolysin and PCR. Pathology for V. ordalii tends to be a lot of localised to the muscle and areas of the malacopterygian skin, however may be found in loose animal tissue of the gills, throughout the channel and within the opening caeca.
V. salmonicida conjointly called trauma syndrome, show haemorrhaging within the covering close the inner organs and therefore the fish square measure anaemic and fry show splenamegaly, cataracts and os harm. Whereas V. damsela shows primarily ulcerations from zero.5-2cm in diameter and square measure defined by muscle lysis and histiocytes inside the derma and musculus of Chromis punctipinnis
Treatment
Fish will be treated with Polycillin, Chloromycetin, NegGram derivatives, nitrofurans, sulphonamides and trimethoprim. Drug resistant strains have appeared owing to in depth use of those chemicals.
Control
A formalin-killed V. anguillarium immunogen is on the market and may be administered via intraperitoneal injection, immersion or oral administration.

tetrahymena

Tetrahymena

Pre-disposing factors

The introduction of un-quarantined fish in to the marine museum. ciliophoran is one in every of the background organisms found in aquaria, it's typically harmless unless the fish area unit stressed or it reaches a lot of above traditional background levels, in each cases it's going to become infective.
Symptoms

    White dots covering the fish, nearly similar to white spot.
    Ragged tail and fins.
    Scales that look slightly unsmooth, just about protruding like swelling however not parturition quite flat either.
    Clamped fins.
 fast respiration.
    Lethargy.
    Mortality, ciliophoran infections area unit doubtless to lead to a lot of higher mortality rates than white spot, if you think that your fish have white spot however there are many losses then it's doubtless that the fish have this condition and not white spot.

Curiously and in contrast to white spot, some fish area unit extraordinarily liable to this sickness and will die within the comparatively early stages of the infection whereas alternative fish within the same tank stay utterly freed from the infection. this can be one in every of the items to seem out for once this sickness is suspected.

Note - it's impossible that a fish can exhibit ALL of the on top of doable symptoms.
Treatment

Treat employing a proprietary white spot remedy however the infective agent is not notably liable to most remedies and then so as to impact a cure you'll got to repeat the course of treatment over once. that in itself will be nerve-wracking to the fish.

Even with fast treatment you must expect some fairly quick and quite dramatic losses with this sickness. make certain that carbon or the other chemical filter media is faraway from the system before treating and do not build any water changes throughout treatment.